The wonderful Ha'apai Group is Tonga's best kept secret. There are 60 small islands in all, only 17 of which are inhabited and of these, only 3 offer accommodation. Easily accessible yet with virtually no tourism, these small islands with traditional fishing villages, living culture and fantastic beaches are truly enchanting. Here you can explore at will, interact with the ever so friendly locals and experience life of the old South Seas.
Daily flights (except Sunday) to Lifuka, the main island in the group, take just 30-minutes from Tongatapu. Two ferries service the Ha'apai Group departing Nuku'alofa on Monday and Tuesday en route to Vava'u, taking just between 7 and 12 hours depending on which ferry you take. Fares are T$35 one way.
Lifuka Island, Haapai
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Kelefisia Island, Haapai
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Lifuka is a flat island, barely 11 sq. km in size with the group's main village, Pangai. This charming village set mid way on the protected west coast has almost 3,000 inhabitants, a bank, post office, a few small stores, couple of restaurants, half a dozen guesthouses and 24-hour electricity. Otherwise it's a normal Tongan village with pigs wandering about the streets, small plantations at the back of the house and fishing boats in the lagoon. Spend some time here and you'll doubtless be invited to a local feast or dance at the town hall. There are no scheduled buses on Lifuka and the easiest way to get about is by push bike. Motor cycle hire is a hit and miss affair - sometimes there's a bike for hire, sometimes it's not working.
A sealed road extends right along the west coast of Lifuka with lots of dirt tracks and bush trails meandering throughout the island. There is no natural forest here, instead the land is cultivated with taro (the staple root crop) and dotted with fruit trees, coconut plantations and grazing fields. It's easy to explore and difficult to get lost.
Church at Pangai, Haapai
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Sandy Beach, Foa, Haapai
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North of Pangai is a string of small fishing villages along the west coast, and lots of attractive beaches. At the northern point, beyond the airport, is a causeway to adjoining Foa Island. Again, the sealed road extends only up its west coast. Foa Island has the groups only up-market place to stay, a collection of 15 bungalows on Sandy Beach. Horse riding tours of the island are one of its attractions and there is a scuba diving operator based here. Ha'apai offers some excellent scuba diving sites, but with just the one scuba diving operator offering dive trips. At the north point of Foa you look out to Nukunamo Island, the King's private recluse.
The coast to the south and east of Pangai is virtually empty of settlement and offers the best beaches, although those on the more exposed east coast do not offer good snorkelling. At the southern point you can wade across to Uoleva Island at low tide to explore the uninhabited island and its white sand beaches.
Southern Point, Haapai
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Boast at Pangai, Haapai
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The best way to explore the other islands is by boat. There are always boats to hire at Pangai Village, or you could join one of the local village boats which come to Pangai for shopping trips. Uiha Island, a short boat ride to the south of Lifuka, is probably the most interesting island to visit. Apart from the 'by now standard' tropical beaches and fishing villages, Uiha has a rich history. This was once the royal burial grounds and there are some interesting archaeological sites to see including an ancient star mound and burial pyramids. A small guesthouse is operated on Uiha but without electricity, or phone.
Uiha Village, Haapai
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Kao Island on horizon, Haapai
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For avid explorers, you might be tempted to visit the large volcanic islands of Tofua and adjacent Kao in the west part of the group. It was off these islands that the Mutiny of the Bounty actually occurred. Tofua is the most active volcano in Tonga and often bellows smoke. The island has virgin rain forest, lots of plumice, is rich in bird life and has a stunning lake in its crater. It's possible to walk to the summit in under 2 hours from landing on the coast, and it's much faster coming back down. Kao is considerably smaller in size but its towering perfectly cylindrical peak is the highest point in Tonga at 1109 metres. On a clear day, you can see Kao on the horizon from Lifuka.
Camping is prohibited in Ha'apai.
Accommodation
Tonga Tour Companies
Readers may also be interested in the following destinations:
Cook Islands Travel Guide
Fiji Travel Guide
Samoa Travel Guide
Tonga Travel Guide
Tahiti Travel Guide
Hawaii Travel Guide
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